Casa Chicho in Salamanca and the Amazing Pulpo

Pulpo a la Gallega con cachelos

Stuffed full of pincho moruno, arroz negro, and cochinillo asado we made our way back up the street. We paused in front of Casa Chicho, offering Galician seafood specialties. Our stomachs were full, but the lure of seafood was strong. We peered in. Casa Chicho occupies a street corner with an entrance on each street, both leading down a long hallway that obscures the bar-restaurant hiding within. The place was nearly empty, but looked like it had been full not so long ago. Past the bar area, the restaurant decor was, well, the best phrase I can think of is "down home country" crossed with "nautical." If you've been in an American "country" restaurant, then you'll know the feel I'm talking about with the wooden tables and chairs and checkered tablecloths. Add some nets, floats and a ship's wheel. (This might not translate well for my non-American readers, but think "home-y" and not fancy.) 

Despite the fact that our description may make it sound like the Spanish version of a Red Lobster, it didn't feel fake, and it was cozy. It really felt like a very authentic, well-loved place. They clearly had regulars, one of whom came in to split a bottle of wine with one of the chefs at a side table. The bartender and chefs were very friendly, and when we expressed an interest in knowing more about the food, they enthusiastically complied, plying us with Galician regional white wine while serving us some delicious seafood that had us groaning with both joy and pain.

Calamari

We started with pulpo a la gallega con cachelos (octopus). The octopus was cooked to perfection, served with a chunk of potato, and sprinkled with sea salt and Spanish paprika. The crunch of the salt contrasted with the tender bites of octopus. Delicioso! We went on to calamari (squid), because we were curious to see how they'd prepare it. No thick batter here. As you can see from the photo, the coating is so delicate it is nearly sheer‚ and it was perfectly done! Then they brought us a free plate of almejas a la marinera (mussels). Oh, my. Even Joe ate them, and he doesn't normally like mussels much.

By the time we finished, we stumbled out of Casa Chicho (because walking was rather difficult) and made our way back to one of the main streets. We finally found a bus — the last one of the night — that said "Plaza" on it. "Cual plaza?" we asked. "El Plaza Mayor!" replied the driver, shocked that anyone would ask such a silly question. We got on, stopped off in the Plaza for a nightcap of ice cream, and then collapsed in exhausted bliss in our hotel.

We honestly can't say how Casa Chicho compares to seafood tapas bars in Galicia, but we were very happy with our dishes. And if you're in Salamanca, this place is definitely worth a stop. If we ever return to Salamanca, Casa Chicho will be on our must-visit list. If we ever move there, we'll become regulars too.

Casa Chicho
20 c\Van Dyck
Salamanca

Almejas a la Marinera

Comments

[Amanda]

The picture of almejas has to be one of the most beautiful food pictures...the picture itself and the desire for mussels it evokes!
Thank you for sharing.

[Jen]

You absolutely made this come to life! I feel full reading it. Thank you.

[Gabriella Opaz]

Your story is fabulous and timely, because not only are scheduled for a trip to Lisbon next week where we are dying to once again eat their olive oil baked octopus with just a touch of lemon (I'm salivating already), but we also have a wedding in Galicia in September. Although we have lived in Spain for 3 years, I still have not found my way to that neck of the woods, and I am so excited drink Albarino with their seafood dishes! Thanks for the story, and out of curiosity, did you go to a restaurant called, Delicatessen (based on the French film), in Salamanca? If not, put it on your list for your second trip here to Spain!~

[Joe, Kitchen Chick's husband]

We didn't, no. But that's kind of a strange theme for a restaurant, given what kind of meat the delicatessen in that movie serves... ;-)

[Gabriella Opaz]

Yeah, I would have to agree with you that basing your restaurant on, well, you know the topic I'm referring to, is a little risque, but the irony is so priceless. We ate there a few years ago and had an incredible lunch with great service (something that is difficult to come across in Spain). Great decor as well!

[Raquel]

Hi! I've been living in Ann Arbor for the past five months, but I'm from Galicia. I found your blog before coming to AA and I've been reading it since then. I can't tell you what a pleasant surprise has been to read your post on "pulpo a la gallega con cachelos". Thank you for that!! Though, it's a shame that you hadn't had pulpo in Galicia, where it's always served on a wooden dish (it really makes a difference).

[Joe, Kitchen Chick's Husband]

Gabriella:

We'll check it out when we get back to Salamanca. We're considering doing one of their 2-week intensive Spanish classes in the next couple years. (I speak it, but as I mostly learned mine on the fly from a bunch of Mexico City cops, I have some gaps. KC speaks less than I do.)

Raquel:

We do have to go to Galicia in the future. I expect we'll return to Spain again and again...

The second place we had pulpo a la gallega did serve it on a wooden dish, but it wasn't as good as Casa Chicho's. Maybe Kitchen Chick will post the picture. (Hint!)

[Joe, Husband of Kitchen Chick]

P.S. to Raquel: if you've got any cool Galician (Gallego? not sure how to say that) recipes, please feel free to pass them on... or, you know, invite us over to dinner to do a photo shoot. ;-)

[Chicho]

Dear friends,

This is Chicho, Casa Chicho's main chef. I just write you to thank you for such a nice review. I'm so glad you enjoyed it. You are always very welcome to my place and if you ever come back I'll be very please in sharing a glass of wine with you all.

Best Regards.

Chicho.

PS: About pulpo a la gallega on wooden dish, we don't use it because when you clean it, you never eliminate the dirt completely and there's a risk of contamination... ;-)

[Joe, Kitchen Chick's husband]

Chicho -- it's wonderful that you found us! Next time we make it to Salamanca (and we will) we are coming to your place as soon as we get to town.

That was the best pulpo a la gallega we had on our entire trip.