Clockwise from top left: Stir-Fried Squid Szechuan-Style, Oyster Po'Boys, Monahan's name in lights, Steamed mahi-Mahi with Pineapple Salsa, Salmon with Teriyaki Glaze, Chef Chewy tossing fries with garlic and herbs
Longtime Kitchen Chick readers will know that I rave about Monahan's Seafood in Kerrytown quite a bit. There's no affiliation, it's just one of my favorite places. Known by many as the best place to buy fresh fish in Ann Arbor, Monahan's has also been quietly serving lunch on the side since the late 90s. In 2004, Mike Monahan hired CIA student Chewy Lebnick for the summer, and he brought us fabulous meals like Seared Bonito.
Chef Chewy has returned to Monahan's and is transforming the side-lunch business into the best little seafood restaurant in Ann Arbor. (Actually, I've already thought of Monahan's as the best seafood restaurant in Ann Arbor, but now it's just gotten better!)
On a recent Saturday, Joe and I met his parents at Monahan's and asked Chewy to cook for us until we asked him to stop. We ate...
Joe and I started our meal with a plate of fresh fries, tossed with garlic and salt. Chewy makes the french fries fresh for each order, and they are wonderful. Joe's parents showed up and we got down to some serious seafood eatin'. (Please note: do not attempt this at home; we're professionals...)
We started with the day's special: whitefish with a buerre blanc with rosemary-lemon zest savory bread pudding and sauteed spinach (left). The fish was light and tasty and sauteed just right -- neither underdone nor too done. But I thought the real star was the savory bread pudding. (Okay, I'm a bread pudding fiend.) The texture was creamy and the rosemary and lemon zest flavors were well-balanced.
Second was Steamed Mahi Mahi with Pineapple Salsa (in the collage above). Chef Chewy steamed the Mahi Mahi with garlic and ginger to impart a subtle flavor to the fish, which worked well, and wasn't overpowered by the salsa. We followed that up with Stir-fried Squid Szechuan Style (right). This was perhaps my favorite dish of the day, with its bright spring-like mix of vegetables and spicy sauce.
It was the end of the Maine shrimp season, and we said farewell to the season with their version of "popcorn shrimp": a handful of perfect, sweet little Maine Shrimp deep fried and served with a traditional remoulade (left).
Joe's parents adore oysters and Monahan's staff were all raving about the Po' Boys, but we knew if we ate one of those fab-looking sandwiches that we wouldn't have room for anything else. So we compromised, and tried a few New Orleans fried oysters with a spicy cajun remoulade (as seen in the Po' Boy sandwich above). Wow. I think I've discovered a new fondness for oysters.
We capped our meal with Salmon with Chewy's Mushroom Sauce (not pictured). The mushroom sauce was a demi-glace with vegetable stock, mushrooms, and shallots To counter its heaviness, Chewy served it with a side salad with a dreamy-light oil-less dressing of cream, sherry vinegar, lemon juice, and salt and pepper.
Oh, we were stuffed. What else can I say?
You can do what a lot of people do and indulge in a plate of fish and chips, with house-made tartar sauce, but you'd be kind of missing out because Chewy comes up with some great daily specials. If you want something special or unusual, give Chewy advance warning and he'll plan a menu for you. (And if you're already a fan of Monahan's chowder, salmon burgers, or teriyaki glazed salmon, don't worry -- they're still available.)
Monahan's is a casual setting, right in the middle of the open Kerrytown market, with bar stool seating (kind of like being the audience on a cooking show) and a few tables in the aisle. Although everything is served on paper plates, the quality of the food equals or surpasses any other seafood restaurant in town, for a much lower price.
During the summer months, Monahan's will be adding outdoor seating in the courtyard for those who prefer to enjoy their meals al fresco. They'll also prepare a lot of things to go for later microwaving so you can cook it at home.
Monahan's Seafood
Kerrytown
415 N. Fifth Ave
Ann Arbor, MI 48104
734-662-5118
Kerrytown Area Map
I've had great experiences with Monahan's parchment-paper-wrapped fish preparations to take away. Most are about 10 minutes in a 350 F oven. Not quite as perfect as pan-fried filets, but faster and healthier. There's nothing like pointing out a filet at Monahans counter and enjoying it right there. Just make sure you have more than 30 minutes to spare.
Posted by: Michelle | March 30, 2006 at 01:18 PM
Chewy is a great chef. After knowing him and cooking with him personally, I advise everyone to go sample his delicious cuisine. He's got his head on his shoulders and he knows what tastes great.
Posted by: Matt | March 30, 2006 at 09:45 PM
this place loks very cool. need to check it out some day
Posted by: Gustad Mody | April 04, 2006 at 04:37 PM
Seems like a great place to eat. The food looks delicious.
Posted by: | April 05, 2006 at 11:08 AM
Chef Chewy is not only an awesome and talented chef, he is a true blessing in the lives of all he touches. He is an an incredible young man with a sensational future.
Bon Appetite!
Posted by: Nancy Urban | April 05, 2006 at 10:21 PM
Chef Chewy has cooked for me personally and he is not only a wonderful cook and gracious host, but has knowledge of foods, wines, and spices that just blows my mind. Go and see for yourself!
Posted by: Cathy | April 06, 2006 at 04:03 PM
I have not had the pleasure of dinning there, but I have had the pleasure of knowing him for a very long time and can't wait to get to Michigan to try everything on his menu, and see him again!!
Posted by: Mike Surace | April 20, 2006 at 09:42 PM
Not the Mike Surace from Parma, O?
Posted by: | May 21, 2007 at 06:01 PM